[CTS-Vluvr]

That's right! The stock front rotors that came with Viv were "ticking" when I would turn, mostly when they were cold, which was annoying to say the least. I did some research and discovered that I wasn't the only one with this issue and that Mercedes had the same problem with some of their AMG models. The problem seams to arise from the forged aluminum superalloy rims heating, expanding and cooling and shrinking quicker than the iron rotors they are mated to. In addition, the rims are large and flex a little, which enhances the potential for an annoying ticking sound, almost like a cv axle going out. I spoke with my service manager at Cadillac and at first he had no answer except to put some sort of goop between the rims and rotors and torque the shit out of the bolts and that GM was aware of the problem and was seeking a solid solution. Then a couple of weeks later when I was in for a wash, he enthusiastically approached me and said GM had issued a TSB and that the solution was to replace the front rotors with a completely different design. That design just happens to be the same rotors they use on the CTS-V race cars! They installed them today and they are badass! I found the exact ones online and here's the description:

Quote:C6 Z06 & GrandSport Corvette two-piece floating front brake rotors are proudly built and assembled in the USA. They feature a heavy-duty Coleman Racing slotted rotor with black anodized 6061 T6 milled aluminum hats. Coleman Racing is synonymous with NASCAR, Desert Race Trucks and more. And our billet hats are CNC machined and then hard coated to provide a superior finish. The fasteners are NAS bolts and nuts, same as used in aircraft and spacecraft production. The end result is superior stopping power with a weight savings of 30+ pounds over factory rotors. The full floating rotors are for hardcore racing where extremely aggressive pads are being used.

These new C6 Z06 & Grand Sport Corvette brake rotors weigh in at 16.15 lbs each compared to 26.5 lbs on a stock rotor. That is a weight savings of 10.25 lbs per rotor. Using the standard ratio of 1 pound of unsprung weight is equal to 6 pounds of overall weight that would be equivalent to 75 pounds of weight off the car. That is a significant difference in acceleration for just a set of rotors.

That's right, lighter better and now my bitch is even faster! Best of all, these rotors retail for $900! Thanks GM, you're the best! I'll take a pic tomorrow.:OHYEAH!:

ROTOR RETAIL LINK

[REVolution]

That is sweet! I find it hard to believe that it has that problem in the first place. I'm glad the C6 Rotors take care of it. What kind of compound are the brake pads? Did you replace those as well?

[CTS-Vluvr]

RotaryKing aka Rev;135219 Wrote: That is sweet! I find it hard to believe that it has that problem in the first place. I'm glad the C6 Rotors take care of it. What kind of compound are the brake pads? Did you replace those as well?

Why do you doubt? It was a glaring issue that developed over time. I have about 4k miles. My best friend even commented the other day as we were leaving work and I took off as he was walking away from my car, inquiring what that loud ticking sound was. I noticed it every morning and afternoon and pretty much any time I drove through parking garages, which amplify all the sounds a car makes. The pads are metallic Brembo's I believe. It didn't state on the service receipt that they had been replaced and my service advisor didn't mention that.

[REVolution]

No, I don't mean I'm doubting you. Its weird how they didn't figure that out when they designed it that the two different alloys would heat up differently. My next brakes are going to be 2-piece just like the ones you got now. The nice thing about the two piece is that the hubs are aluminum while the rotors themselves are steel or whatever the material is that they use. Were the stock brakes 2-Piece or just a regular single piece steel/iron disc?

[CTS-Vluvr]

Here's the previous TSB problem/solution analysis:

Quote:PIC5136B: Clicking Noise From Front Wheels ('09-'10 CTS-V)
#PIC5136B: Clicking Noise From Front Wheels - (Jun 2, 2010)
Subject: Clicking Noise From Front Wheels
Models: 2009 - 2010 Cadillac CTS-V
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This PI was superseded to update wheel part numbers. Please discard PIC5136A.
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The following diagnosis might be helpful if the vehicle exhibits the symptom(s) described in this PI.

Condition/Concern:
A customer may comment on a clicking noise emanating from the front wheels. This condition is noticed at low speed (walking speed) during full wheel lock turns on dry clean pavement (Full lock parking lot maneuver). The clicking noise is generally noted as approximately 1 to 4 "clicks" per wheel revolution. The cause may be interaction between wheel mounting face and wheel mounting surface on rotor.

Recommendation/Instructions:
Complete the procedure below on both front wheels.

Note: It is not necessary to clean the rear wheels for the "clicking" condition.

•Remove the front wheels.
•Clean the rotor top hat as follows.
• 2.1 Use a clean cloth dampened with GM Brake Parts Cleaner 12378556 or equivalent.

• 2.2 Clean the wheel mounting surface of the rotor (rotor top hat). During cleaning process be sure to clean the rotor near the wheel pilot at the center of the rotor.

•Replace the front wheels with the appropriate part number listed below which have a revised mounting surface.
20951880 Painted Wheel

20951881 Polished Wheel

Please follow this diagnostic or repair process thoroughly and complete each step. If the condition exhibited is resolved without completing every step, the remaining steps do not need to be performed.

[REVolution]

Ah, simple enough.

[CTS-Vluvr]

RotaryKing aka Rev;135223 Wrote:No, I don't mean I'm doubting you. Its weird how they didn't figure that out when they designed it that the two different alloys would heat up differently. My next brakes are going to be 2-piece just like the ones you got now. The nice thing about the two piece is that the hubs are aluminum while the rotors themselves are steel or whatever the material is that they use. Were the stock brakes 2-Piece or just a regular single piece steel/iron disc?

They were single piece and steel or iron. I think the aluminum top hat on the racing set is what cures the issue. My service manager says I'm the 3rd customer to have this done and that the other 2 customers have had no complaints since. Maybe they tested the car with different rims and that's how they missed this? Either way, free set of $900 rotors for me!:yeeees:

---

RotaryKing aka Rev;135225 Wrote:Ah, simple enough.

Yeah, but he told me that process would "cure" the problem for a couple of months, then it would come back.

[REVolution]

Hell, I wouldn't be complaining if they took care of it for me either! Yea, the two piece rotors are the best way to go if you can afford them. They're wicked expensive. I'd love to have those on my car. Yea, I wouldn't recommend going to any other softer pad unless you plan on tracking it. Just stick with OEM man. It'll be much better.

[CTS-Vluvr]

RotaryKing aka Rev;135227 Wrote:Hell, I wouldn't be complaining if they took care of it for me either! Yea, the two piece rotors are the best way to go if you can afford them. They're wicked expensive. I'd love to have those on my car. Yea, I wouldn't recommend going to any other softer pad unless you plan on tracking it. Just stick with OEM man. It'll be much better.

I'd like to run it at the track but I've been so busy moving into my bichin' new Hollywood pad that the track has been the furthest thing from my mind. It won't be a habit so I think these pads will be fine.

[CTS-Vluvr]

I haven't had a chance to performance test these new rotors Rev. What differences should I expect?

[REVolution]

Shorter stopping distances is the main thing, they also won't fade as much (if at all based on how you drive). You just have to wear them in properly for at least 500 miles. After that, its all up to you. Do you have stainless steel lines brake lines? If I had that car, thats one of the things I'd check, and I'd also change the brake fluid to some Motul fluid. That stuff is incredible! It feels better and has an incredibly high boiling point so you can rest assured that your brakes will never fail. If you decide to track, I do recommend a soft compound brake pad but don't use them as daily drivers. They screech a lot and need to heat up.

[CTS-Vluvr]

RotaryKing aka Rev;135250 Wrote:Shorter stopping distances is the main thing, they also won't fade as much (if at all based on how you drive). You just have to wear them in properly for at least 500 miles. After that, its all up to you. Do you have stainless steel lines brake lines? If I had that car, thats one of the things I'd check, and I'd also change the brake fluid to some Motul fluid. That stuff is incredible! It feels better and has an incredibly high boiling point so you can rest assured that your brakes will never fail. If you decide to track, I do recommend a soft compound brake pad but don't use them as daily drivers. They screech a lot and need to heat up.

I do a lot of quick to 65-75mph blasts, then hard brisk braking. This is L.A. after all but it's entirely capable of hitting 85+ in 1 block and stopping, which I've done many times with friends. Scary as fuck and the adrenaline rush is huge, but it happens so fast that Cops don't have a chance to see it!:OHYEAH!: Then there's my high speed blasts on the freeways that end in hard, evasive braking and turning. Believe me, I'm getting my $900 a month I pay out of this bitch one way or another! She was smooth as butter when she hit 140 then quickly decelerated back to an 80 cruising speed recently. I can see why I probably exacerbated the clicking issue and why some docile owners will probably never experience it. I don't think I want to fuck with brake fluid and stuff, why would I need to?

[REVolution]

You don't need to. I'm just saying that if I had that car, I would. I'm very picky about the stuff I put in. If I had that car, I can clearly afford to do the brake system right so I'd spend the money to do it right. I am a stickler for using the right stuff for fluids where applicable. I need to get better brake fluid so I'm going with the Motul myself. They test their stuff incredibly well and its track proven and I need something like that. It provides better brake pressure too.

[jspookss]

The 6?

[CTS-Vluvr]

RotaryKing aka Rev;135270 Wrote:You don't need to. I'm just saying that if I had that car, I would. I'm very picky about the stuff I put in. If I had that car, I can clearly afford to do the brake system right so I'd spend the money to do it right. I am a stickler for using the right stuff for fluids where applicable. I need to get better brake fluid so I'm going with the Motul myself. They test their stuff incredibly well and its track proven and I need something like that. It provides better brake pressure too.

You think they used cheap shit on my V? It set a record at the Ring so it can't be too bad, right?